Still feeling a bit ropy but the weather great so headed to Ben Lawers hoping to do Cat Gully but foiled again - the one gully that didn't have snow in it (south facing) . So I went over the SE ridge which was very nice then on to An Stac, which I foolishly tried to descend direct. I now know why it has such a reputation! Ended up climbing back up and taking the usual detour. Finished up over Meall Garbh and back to Lawers village just as it got dark.

Despite some good weather, my holiday excursions were rather limited by poor health (m-flu).

Got out on Christmas eve to Ben Ledi which seemed OK at the time but prompted a relapse....

Between some pretty poor weather (well we're owed it), I noticed that MWIS forecast "a weak ridge of high pressure" for the lakes and, knowing they'd had quite a bit of snow, headed down to do Sharp Edge on Blencathra. There wasn't so much snow but enough high up to make the ridge worthwhile. The steep section, which can be hard when wet, proved easier than in summer (I had been worried) as the shallow chimney to the side had become a staircase of firm snow. The summit was glorious, maybe best I've seen the lakes ? Eventually though I had to head down Doddick Fell back to the car.

Great weather again. I noticed on the way up to Glencoe on Tuesday evening (stayed in the Glencoe YH) that there was a lot of snow on the Ballachulish horsehoe, which doesn't normally see so much. So I went for that, most enjoyable as always, but a very different snow profile to Beinn an Dothaidh - lots of new unconsolidated snow which made everything laborious. Ended up climbing Beinn a Bheithir twice so I could descend its N ridge, good fun until the forest - usual nightmare.

Good weather around Bridge of Orchy so I set out with the plan of doing the remote munro Beinn Mhanach but it soon became obviuos that I didn't have enough daylight. So I went of Beinn an Dothaidh intsead, which was very nice - hard compacted snow on the ridge. I descended the Central Gully which is long and probably better that the usual West Gully line although it wasn't quite "in" lower down.

Andy I stayed in Bridge of Orchy and made a daylight start on North Buttress on The Buchaille, as he had to get home early. However, there was masses of new snow and it took us 3 hours to get to the start of the route so we ab-ed off. I think it would have taken us hours ...

Highly miserable. Drove to Achnasheen to do Moruisg and Sgurr nan Ceannaichean. It poured all day. These hills actually proved a good choice as they are just a bit lower than the surrounding hills, which really kopped it. West-to-East would have been better though, given the strong westerlies. Thoroughly soaked (wet?), I drove home.

A great day in prospect so I headed north stopping at Loch Laggan to do the two hills at Creag Meagaidh that I've never managed to do - Stob Poite Coire Ardair and Carn Liath. Not much snow, except for the "Window", which always gets it, so I ascended that, up to SPCA and over the tops via Carn Liath back to the car. Highly enjoyable.

A rather modest day but serviceable so I headed to Chrianlarich to have a close up look at Y Gully on the face of Cruach Ardrain, which I've been meaning to do for a while. To damp to actually do it though. Up twisting ridge, over Cruach Ardrain and down from the col on the far side, traversing under the face to check things out. Managed to get through the forest no problems (usually a problem on this mountain).

Monday 4th August

Alps 2008

Set out early on Saturday with Graham, met Jason at Geneva airport and set out for the Ecrins national park in the southern french alps, arriving at the Glacier Blanc hut just in time to be told off by the guardian for being late... protestations useless.

Sunday 29th June (early this year)

We left the Glacier Blanc hut at 4 am to do our warm up peak - Pic de Glacier d'Arsine - before continuing up to the Ecrins Hut. The peak exceeded expectations with a nice little ridge to finish.

After a good meal in the Ecrins hut and a few hours' kip, we all headed up the glacier to Barre des Ecrins. Unlike 2003, conditions on the glacier were ideal - lots of snow still around being so early in the season. Unfortunately we soon lost Jason (he turned back, tired). Graham & I plodded on.

Within 2½ hours we were at the breche (col) below the summit. However, now the amount of snow played against us; the normal route, the west ridge was out of condition. The few ascents that were being made were being made via the north face route so we had a brief dalliance with that before thinking better of it and consoling ourselves with the subsidiary peak , Dôme de Neige Double unfinished business...

Persuaded the lads that we should have a look at another peak - Pic de Neige Cordier - which we would do on the way back to the valley (Ailefroide). It turned out to be an interesting little route, with some problems caused by the amount/softness of snow. The visibility was also quite poor at times which added to the fun.

Thursday 3rd/Friday 4th July

After dropping Graham off at Geneva, Jason & I drove round to Saas to do the Weissmiss traverse from the Amalgeller hut. We set out early-ish on Thursday and got to the hut around lunchtime, averting our usual last minute panic .

Friday started out unpromisingly - it was drizzling as we left the hut and we had concerns over the snow conditions. However, as we climbed above the Zwischbergenpass, we broke through the mist to reveal a classic inversion. Needless to say this did wonders for snow conditions / moral and we made good progress to reach the rocky section of the route. The scrambling was easy and most enjoyable and we finished off the last snowy section to arrive at the summit for about 10:15. We descended the north flank route which was very slushy lower down and hauled ourselves back to Hosaas for the cable car descent.

Got the first cable car/train up to Mittellalin with a view to traversing over to the Alphubel. Unfortunately, Jason was unwell and didn't get far. I ended up going up the Allallinhorn on my own - my 5th or 6th time I think.

A reasonable day forecast, though set to get worse, so I went to do route 53 in Storer's book - the Strathfarrar Six. What I didn't know (hadn't read!) was that there are weird access restrictions on the road up the glen - 9am to 8pm in summer and I didn't arrive till 12.15. Raced round the circuit as quick as I good, getting back to the car at about 6.45.

Rob & I decided to take advantage of the nice weather and the fact that he'd pulled out of the Edinburgh marathon to go hill walking together for the first time in ages. We completed my Tarmachan Ridge route at a pretty good pace. Lots of people about, best weather Rob reckons he's ever had in Scotland ... ?

Went climbing at Dunkeld with Tim and did the following routes: Cuticle Crack, Terminal Buttress (AL), Wriggle, Beech Wall (AL). The nice weather continues ...

Went climbing at Traprain with a guy called Tim and did the following routes: Great Corner, Left edge (TH), Via Dolorosa (afwul descent), MS Route (TH)

Went over Ben More & Stob Binnein, which are quite high and hold the snow well. I know everyone likes to say 'yah, alpine conditions' but it really was. Hot, sunblock, slushy snow ... a most enjoyable day out again.

My annual pilgrimage to Ben Lui ... a very hot day, plenty of snow but twitchy in the gully so I backed off (as did the guys in the picture, hope I didn't put them off!), and traversed round to the ridge, which had good snow cover on it too. As it was all too pleasant, I extended the day by traversing Ben Oss before descending to the farm at Cononish, collecting my bike and cycling back to the car.

Ben Lawers did it to me again ... Looked quite promising on the way in but deteriorated by the time I got to the lochan. Started up Cat gully but it had avalanched very recently - new snow on old hard stuff so I went for the east ridge instead, descending over Beinn Ghlas, traversing round to eventually reach Lawers village.

Headed up to Beinn an Dothaidh (again), thinking about doing one of the gullies I'd not tried before but large cornices in evidence (the picture shows where they exit) so I went up West Gully again, which has a reliable way out. Up to the summit and back down into the NE corrie. Fast - under 4 hours. Not a bad day if a bit breezy on top.

Nigel & I stayed in the CIC hut and did Good Friday Climb on Ben Nevis (after I rejected Indicator wall - too hard). The route was good with a nice pitch of fat ice at the crux. Pretty cold in the northerly wind and wild on the summit so we raced down the arete to the abseil posts and descended on good neve into Coire Leis and back to the hut. Very stormy on Sunday morning so we headed home - but did it improve? It was quite nice lower down but I guess that doesn't mean the Ben wasn't still stormbound...

A long walk up to Bealach Fhionnghaill then up the east ridge of Stob an Fhuarain - some awkward steepenings on slushy snow - then across to Sgor na h-Ulaidh, where snow conditions were much better. Doubled back to the col between the two mountains and descended good snow into the corrie below. A good day to start, gradually deteriorating. Rain/snow in the afternoon.

Another good day. I walked up the Leacann Gorton from Achaladair farm and into Coire an Lochain. I climbed the wide gully that rises to the col west of Beinn a Chreachain (some avalanche threat high up, I thought). Doubled back for Beinn a Chreachain in quite strong NE winds, and then continued along the ridge to Beinn Achaladair and back via Corrie Daingean. Superb views over to Cruachan, the Black Mount, Ben Nevis ...

Headed up Ben Chonzie from Loch Turret. A fair bit of snow on the tops but surrounding hills looked better (should have been on Ben Vorlich judging by the photo)! Great views

After the storms of Monday (not that bad in Scotland), a great day in the east so I went to do my long-hoped-for winter ascent of Glas Tulaichean in the Southern Cairngorms, up the SE ridge, down E ridge. Quite an easy proposition when the weather's like this but a very nice mountain and feeling remote. Rain came in as forecast at about 3.15 but I was walking back up Gleann Taitneach by then. 6 hours?

Graham & I went for one more training day around Drumochter - Sgairneach Mhor, Ben Udlamain and A' Mharconaich. Great winter conditions - cold, quite windy and lots of new drifted snow. Many navigation legs and some avalanche assessment on Ben Udlamain.

Fancied a break from all the navigation practice etc. so I gave Nigel a call and we met up in Tyndrum to do a route in the NNE corrie of Beinn a Dothaidh. After rejecting West Buttress (too lean), we decided to tackle Taxus, although Nigel has done this a couple of times before. It turned out to be in pretty fine condition and was thoroughly enjoyable. Superb weather too. Luckily the harder direct finish, a steep icefall, was not in condition, so we didn't even have to contemplate it! Descended the N ridge back to the car. 5 pitches c. 3.5 hours on the route

A pretty good day forecast and a fair bit of snow overnight, down to the road in the Southern Highlands. I decided to do Ben Challium from Strathfillan, traversing North -> South as it is not too long - a bonus when there's fresh snow about. After ploughing through fresh snow for a couple hours I got to the summit ridge, which was superb - hard wind blown snow, perfect for cramponing. Did some drills (snow bollards, pits) and descended back to the car.

Weather's gone to pieces now; 65 mph winds forecast for later in the day so I nipped up to Glenshee to see what could be done. Ended up climbing the Cairnwell (not very far) and the navigating via small summits and ski buildings over to Carn Aosda before heading down. The weather steadily deteriorated for the rest of the day. Just patches of wet snow remain.

High pressure still dominates. Graham & I headed to the Cairngorms for our snow-holing expedition. After a bit of 'security on steep ground', we made our way to Corrie Domhain, where we hoped to find enough snow for a decent pit. We needn't have worried - there were several holes already dug and we found an absolute palace: big enough to stand, two large 'bunks' and little alcoves for candles etc. We had a brew and night-navved (yeah, I know) over to Ben MacDui then back to the snow hole, which we found no bother.

Graham left at first light (to do some unfinished munros) so I had a little lie-in and then dropped down to Loch Avon and climbed Castlegates Gully, a scenic but easy route up Carn Etchachan. After that, I wandered over to the Ptarmigan ski centre (via Loch Avon) for a plate of chips before walking over Cairngorm back to the snow hole.

It was a very clear (cold) night and glorious sunshine the next morning. I had a walk round the back of Cairngorm, finding good hard snow on the eastern slopes. I did a few drills in Ciste Meraidh and headed back to the car for about 2.30 pm. I went to Tescos in Aviemore and ate for about an hour.

With high pressure in command, and the snow now limited to the highest ground, I decided to try my long-mooted snow holing trip over the Grey Corries. Late Monday morning, I headed up to a small corrie I'd spotted earlier in the year, just below Stob a Coire Claurigh and, as hoped, it proved a sheltered little spot - just about enough snow for a snow hole . I nipped up the ridge outlier - Stob Coire na Ceannain - before digging in for the night. I had a pretty reasonable night (mild) although although, I woke up with a sore neck (used the shovel as a pillow). It was a beautiful start to the day, although a bit windy to begin with. Spring conditions - 60:40 rock over snow, snow quite hard at first - and by 11 am I had reached Stob Coire Easain, arguably the logical end of the ridge. However, as it was still early, I continued on to Sgurr Coinnich Mor, which had a nice steep snow slope to negotiate and then doubled back to Stob Coire Easain for the long walk home. Back at the car at about 4 - slow but the bag was quite heavy!

After a pretty drastic day on Sunday, Monday was supposed to be a bit better so I headed to the Southern Highlands to do Stob Binnein, one of the higher ones in that area, from Loch Voil. The forecast said 'hazards hill fog' and it was right - the cloud was really sticking to the shape of the hills. So it turned into a good navigation day: Stob Coire nan Lochan, Stob Binnein and over Meall na Dige before a quick run back to the car before it got dark. Snow wet but should be good after a freeze!

Graham & I headed to Killin and the Tarmachan ridge. I blotted my copybook by persuading Graham that the road up to the Ben Lawers visitor centre 'should be ok'. He ought to have trusted his instincts; it was a desperate struggle even in his 4WD.

Still, he got his reward - a perfect winter's day with deep snow covering the entire mountain. We waded up to Meall nan Tarmachan then over the narrow bit and descended the south ridge of to Meall Garbh, fitting in digging an avalanche pit and practising snow anchors. Absolutely superb views of ..well... everything! Back to the car by 3 for a careful drive back to the main road.

After a couple of enjoyable days spent skiing - Glenshee on Sunday, Cairngorm on Monday (where the picture was taken) - I decided that I'd better get some walking done so I set out early for Braeriach, which is a fair hike.

It was cold and clear in the morning and the walk through the Chalamain gap and the Larig Ghru to get to the foot of the mountain was most pleasant. Braeriach really is a nice mountain and the underfoot conditions were good, with a good deal of hard snow. The final ridge round the corrie rim is particularly good. Things turned a bit grim on the way back and I was pleased to get back to the car. 8 hours.

Quite a bit of snowfall overnight. Eliza dropped me off at the Steall car park and I set out on a little journey over Sgurr a Bhuic, Stob Coire Bhealaich, Aonach Beag and then Aonach Mor. The day started out promising, although hard work in the new snow but got progressively worse. By about 2.30 it was full-on blizzard conditions and I was glad when I finally got to the summit run ski tow at Aonach Mor, which you can follow back to the gondola. Happy to find the gondola running, albeit it slowly and swinging violently in the wind.

Got the Aonach Mor gondola, which they didn't get running till past 10 O'Clock due to high winds, and nipped round the back and onto the Nid Ridge, then the summit of Aonach Mor. Pretty windy on top.

Met Graham & Claire at the Creag Meagaidh car park (which I completely overshot & had to backtrack), parked my car at Moy and made an enjoyable traverse of Meagaidh , up the south (SW?) ridge and down via the Window. Pretty cold & wild on top.